The evolution of the TV might be ongoing, but one thing that’s constant is the desire for as big an image as possible. Granted that we’re all spoiled with our flat panels and front projection systems, compared to the days of the 19-inch TV tube, but “bigger is better,” continues to dominate our minds. The biggest barrier between “bigger” TVs and us is having to buy a new display — you can’t “upgrade” from a 42-inch to a 55, 60 or larger. And if your recently purchased HDTV doesn’t do 3D and you want it — again you’re stuck with buying a new set or going without.

Okay, there’s a third alternative: the Sony Personal 3D Viewer. It’s a headset that brings any video being fed to it up close and personal, giving you the equivalent of a 750-inch screen from 65 feet away to glom at. And not just a high-definition image either because it also does 3D. Difficult to use? Nah.

Physically setting up the Viewer is simple: to start, you plug a video source (like a Blu-ray player) into the HDMI input on the back of the stand-alone box that houses all the electronics, with another HDMI cable going into an output to go back to your display (if you want). The box is about the size of one of those audio amps you place in a car’s trunk and only has a single light to verify that the power is active; there are no controls on it.

A 12 foot cable is permanently attached to the Viewer and goes into a connector on the front of the box; it’s a proprietary type, which explains the cable’s length since you can’t extend it. Then you insert the AC cord in to its corresponding socket and plug it into the wall outlet.

All the controls are on the right underside of the Viewer, consisting of a click wheel with a center button and two smaller buttons side-by-side for volume. The power button is farther away so as to avoid it being accidentally pressed. Because of its placement, I recommend you press it prior to putting on the Viewer (a red light on the box will change to green to indicate “On”).

Putting the Sony on for the first time is a bit involved because a correct fit is vital to seeing a uniform image. Place it on your head as if it was a catcher’s mitt or, for those less sports inclined, as if you were putting on a baseball cap starting from behind the crown of your head. Pull the Viewer forward and down until your nose meets the bridge at the front. Now you make two adjustments — one changing the distance between the two lenses and the front of your eyes using push-in tabs for forward/backward movement; then readjusting the clips attached to a plastic strap framework that grips the side of your head. Once this is done, look straight ahead at the “Welcome” screen that now consumes your view. Reach under each eye and move the protruding tab on the Viewer in/out until the text is in focus. Then press the wheel’s center button to move to the next screen and confirm another image, this one of horizontal and vertical lines. Continue on through a warning screen, disengage the menus and see whatever video is being received.

In my case, I’m using a switcher to start with HD television through a Dish Network satellite receiver. I’ll now adjust the Viewer’s settings to “average” and go from there. The menus include an information screen, which shows the controls the Sony uses and a “Lens-span adjustment” for physically readjusting the two lens panels you’re looking. The “3D” setting lets you set the 3D so that it kicks in automatically or not just when a signal is received, while the “Picture” menu lets you adjust brightness, contrast, color temperature and the like (leave the digital noise reduction off unless you are viewing standard-definition video, is my recommendation). The “Audio” setting lets you set the multichannel controls for surround, along with treble and bass levels. There’s also a general menu to do such things as turn off the Viewer if you remove it or activate/deactivate the HDMI pass-through.

Once all this is done, you’re ready to enjoy a humongously big picture. I don’t know how to measure it, but it’s certainly bigger in perception compared to my 100-inch projection screen when I stood before it and flipped the Viewer on/off my head.

That picture you’re seeing is really something too, especially when watching high-definition (you get an indicator of the resolution feed when it first appears at the screen’s upper left corner). It might be 720p, not 1080p,  as far as your eyes go — but does that matter? No. There’s no light fall off from the corners as the entire image is uniformly lit and, obviously, you’re always seated in the “sweet spot” in relationship to the lenses.

The Viewer uses OLED panels, rather than LCD, resulting in what is, to me, an obvious improvement in the clarity, color intensity and brightness (I’ve worn a lot of these LCD glasses over the years so I feel comfortable making this assessment). While the Viewer is fairly lightweight, there is some discernible strain on the bridge of the nose to get used to. This is especially true for those of us who wear eyeglasses, as there aren’t optical adjustments to eliminate the need for prescription lenses. Here’s a tip — patient adjustment of the two earphone cups can help in reducing the pressure on the nose.

Switching from the Dish to my PlayStation 3 (which does 3D), I brought up Netflix to see how a streaming video would look. I had expected to run a few minutes of “Iron Man 2,” but an hour went by before I put the brakes on. The image was rock-solid 2D and there wasn’t any smearing when the iron guys flew across the screen. To say streaming looks impressive through the Viewer, even though it’s not high-def, would be an understatement. I also ran a cartoon to check out whether solid panels of color were bleeding, but again had no complaints.

Keeping with the super hero thing, I popped in the 3D disc of Green Lantern and powered through some of the scenes that I’ve watched many times on my 3D TV. Besides having a much bigger view, the 3D effects were much more obvious to my eye; not to say that there was a lack of subtlety at times, just that tracking the 3D didn’t require any effort — it was just there “in my face.” I also found the 3D version of Toy Story 3 a good exercise in catching the 3D “moments” and for fans of the series, 3D is really a much better way to watch (“the claw, the claw!”).  Colors were outstanding too and I never ran across any noticeable image flickering either. Yes you should take it off every now and then to rest both your eyes and face, but once the viewing starts, you pretty much forget all of that.

The Bottom Line: It’s not hard to tout the obvious benefit of the Sony Personal 3D Viewer, even at a $800 price tag: you get your own movie theater screen without needing a “man-cave” or having to readjust your living room. For those without 3D in the home, this and a sub-$300 3D-capable Blu-ray player are all you need. Those already invested in 3D can up their viewing size without having to buy new equipment. And in both cases, the one wearing the Viewer will be enjoying themselves immensely. Plus the front of it has a cool blue glow to impress anyone looking your way.

  Editor’s Rating:

4 out of 5 stars

Great

Pros:

• OLED panels provide clear, bright and colorful video
• High-resolution view that is many times bigger than most home theaters
• 3D-capable

Cons:

• Expensive
• Proprietary cable permanently attached to the Viewer
• Headset weight will be uncomfortable to some

When shopping for a new HDTV, you may wonder which should you get, LCD or Plasma? It’s really a good question and is often subject to almost a religious debate amoungst videophiles. But the reality of it is, that it largely depends on where the TV is going to go. Here’s breakdown of the differences between LCD and Plasma and what you should get for your home.

Resolution:

When it comes to how sharp either HDTV is, it’s pretty much a wash. Both come in 1080p models so the resolution is about the same, depending on what model you get. Additionally, both come in 120hz versions (meaning 120 frames go by per second) and LCDs actually go up to 240 and even 480 in some high end models. The down side here is that you end up with the “soap opera” effect of a plastic like look with a higher resolution TV – especially when most broadcast programs are sent at 60hz.

Color and Contrast:

Here’s where plasma can really shine. Plasmas offer richer, bolder colors – especially with blacks, which look really dark and make scenes that are in shadow highly detailed. LCDs that have back lit LEDs and local dimming are closing the gap here, but plasma still has the edge, especially with conventional LCDs that use edge-lit LEDs or florescent light, which can make for a pretty contrasty display.

Off angle viewing

Plasma offers a nice bright and vibrant picture from any angle that is off axis, while some viewing LCDs off axis (especially 3D) may find a slightly dimmer picture.

Reflectivity

This where room location is key. Plasmas have highly reflective surfaces and as such, are generally better in home theater rooms that have either no windows or where the room can be completely darkened. If you have a living room or den with bright, ambient light, then and LCD is your best bet since most models opt for a matte finish display.

Power consumption

LCDs have the lead here, especially LEDs which are very stingy when it comes to power. Plasma, by contrast, are power hogs and will definitely put a dent in your monthly electric bill. As time goes on, though, plasma manufacturers are working to improve power consumption levels – they have to since states like California have mandated it by law. But in the short run, LCDs use far less electricty than their plasma cousins.

Life Span

Both LCDs and Plasma are generally rated at 60,000 hours, or about 20 years if used 8 hours per day. But some plasmas, have been experiencing a phenomenon where after only a few thousand hours the screen amps up the brightness of black levels which could cut the lifespan short. Panasonic has acknowledged the issue and is working to solve the problem with a potential firmware fix. Plasmas also need a break in time of about 100 hours where only full screen viewing should be done, and in movie or cinema modes. This prevents the plasmas phosphors from being overly stimulated by the dynamic brightness settings which could impact it’s lifespan. And widescreen or letterboxed programming need to be avoided in those first 100 hours to avoid prematurely affecting the phosphors with black stripes as well. Digital Video Essentials (not the Blu-ray) has a great pattern that’s a solid, full white field of noise which will exercise all the pixel phosphors the same. Also, there’s a Plasma TV Logo Removing DVD, available in NTSC or PAL format. You can get it at beginwithsoftware.com. It puts colored noise on screen.

What about burn-in complaints on plasma? That was a problem with early models which would have those station logos (called bugs) burned into the corners since they are always on. But plasma makers have virtually eliminated that issue although it could manifest itself if the TV is on 24/7.

3D

You can find 3D capable HDTVs in both Plasma and LCD. In fact, many experts – including Walt Mossberg and Scott Wilkinson, are of the mind that 3D TVs are the best 2D TVs on the market. And as time goes on, 3D is going to become just another available feature. The real question is, active or passive. And generally, passive is far cheaper than active. And if you like to entertain, using passive 3D glasses will impact your wallet far easier than active – where you must have the same glasses for each person viewing.

Price

Because LCDs are more popular and available, they tend to be less expensive than plasma TVs. Additionally, only two or three manufacturers (namely Panasonic and Samsung) actually still make Plasma.

Conclusion

So whether you are looking to get an LCD or Plasma TV, the important thing is to start with where you’re going to put it. If it’s near a bright light source like a window or sliding back door, then LCDs are probably your best bet. If in a darkened room like a den or basement, then plasmas definitely provide a leg up.

Think you’ve missed all those holiday deals for TVs? Well think again because today’s Deal of the Day from Amazon offers a 32-inch 720p LCD HDTV from Sharp. Their LC-32SV29U HDTV model in Black is going for $249.99 when it’s originally listed for $349.99. That’s 29% or $100 off the OG price (and it’s eligible for Free Super Saver Shipping)!

Thanks to its sleek black appearance, the elegant LC-32SV29U LCD TV from Sharp easily meshes well with the décor of any family room, living room or den and provides the perfect viewing experience with its 16:9 aspect ratio, HDTV resolution of 1366 x 768, and breathtaking color purity. Features include: a high contrast ratio, high brightness, and wide viewing angles, making all your favorite shows and movies even more enjoyable.

There’s no need to add a separate digital tuner to enjoy high-quality local broadcasting using a digital signal since it comes with built-in ATSC/QAM/NTSC tuners. Also included are three 3 HDMI inputs (allowing you to make the HTDV the center of your entertainment hub by connecting your HDMI-enabled Blu-ray players, home theater receivers, and next-generation consoles such as Xbox 360 and Playstation3), including one on the side of the TV, and 1 HD Component Video input as well as a D-sub 15-pin input for PC compatibility. You can easily turn your TV into a PC monitor so you can browse the web, watch streaming content and more! The Sharp LC-32SV49U comes with a black cabinet, and the included table stand easily removes for wall mounting applications.

Those in need of a new TV or are looking to upgrade an old one to a 3D version will totally score with today’s Deal of the Day, which is a 46” 3D LED HDTV from Samsung that’s going for only $899.99 after using the COUPON CODE: OEH51583 at TigerDirect! Listed for $1599.99, you’ll save a whopping $700 on a new 3D TV.

The 46-inch Samsung UN46D6400 46″ Class 3D LED HDTV provides full entertainment for any space in your home (or even office) with cool features like Smart TV featuring Web-Connected Samsung Apps and 3D technology. Samsung’s Smart TV allows you to customize your viewing experience and provides the ability to search content both online and on your TV. The 3D technology allows for a completely new viewing experience when watching all your favorite 3D movies and even TV shows (given you have 3D channels, of course).

Not only will it change the way you watch movies and TV, but it’s also stylish with its ultra slim bezel that lets your eyes disappear into the spectacular LED images onscreen that with its captivating 2D & 3D in full HD 1080p. It also comes with Auto Motion Plus 120Hz, which reduces blur so that any action movies, sports and video games have enhanced clarity. Then with Samsung’s AllShare, you can easily sync up many of your DLNA-enabled devices so that you can access music, movies and photos right from your TV screen!

Other cool features include: ConnectShare Movie that lets you watch videos, play music or view photos form a USB drive; Eco Sensor that measures the intensity of the room’s light and automatically calibrates the brightness of the image on the screen; and a built-in swivel stand so that you can easily turn the TV 10 degrees to the left or right to ensure the best view!

Even though it’s the time for giving, many won’t be getting an HDTV in their stocking this Christmas. But with the beginning of the post game season of football looming on the horizon, it’s also the time of year that people start thinking about getting a new HDTV to watch all the big games on New Year’s Day. Here’s a few tips on what to look for when choosing an HDTV.

Summary:

• Know your lingo
• Size Matters
• 3D is optional
• Internet capability means cutting the cable
• Calibrate your HDTV

1. Definitions

First, it may be a good idea to go over nomenclature. When you head over to the local big box store to shop for a TV, you’re going to hear a lot of lingo. So understanding vocabulary is key to not getting lost. Here’s a few terms to learn:

• LCD – Liquid Crystal Display. The image is produced by passing light through pixels that are turned on/off like little shutters. The pixels also have red/green/blue filters to change the color when necessary. Most newer LCDs right now are either edge-lit or back-lit by LEDs, although many budget LCDs still use a series of from florescent tubes to emit their light.  This cannot be overstated as all LED TVs are LCDs, but not all LCDs are LEDs.  Budget LCD TVs may opt for displaying with florescent light rather than LEDs, which we will talk about next.
• LED – Light emitting diode.  Rather than using florescecnt backlite, the current trend in LCD design using LEDs as the light source.    This has several advantages since they are very stingy on power consumption and are also infinitely controllable thanks to a concept called “local dimming,” where each individual LED can be turned on, off, or even dimmed slightly.
• EdgeLit vs. BackLit - With LEDs, the TV can control the light and provide much better detail in color and shadows.  Edge lit LEDs are more popular and cost effective and consist of an array of LED lights on each side of the TV itself. But they can provide an uneven light on screen. This is where back-lit (or local) LEDs come in handy, as the light is coming directly behind the image, rather than being cast from the side.  This provides the best spread of light and better color and contrast.
• Contrast Ratio/Brightness – defined officially as “ratio of the luminance of the brightest color (white) to that of the darkest color (black),” Contrast ratio is essentially how “black” your blacks are.  This is really important for getting greater detail in shadow.  You’ll hear some pretty wild figures from salesmen as to how much a CR ratio should be, but unfortunately, there really isn’t a standard here.  Manufacturers are all over the map in how they measure and rate the contrast ratio, which can make it very difficult to compare from one set to another based on the specs.   And as stated above, edge lit LCDs will have lesser blacks than backlits will, even if the contrast ratio is higher.  So in the end, it depends on how good those blacks look to you personally.
• Resolution – We’ll get to size later, but in general, when trying to choose between 720p or 1080p, smaller 1080p TVs (under 40”) are simply a waste because you can’t really get the advantage of it. Additionally, the TV will also downscale the 1080p image from a Blu-ray disc which can cause some artifacting. So screens larger than 40” should go with 1080p. Smaller screens, like those that are also used for computer screens do just fine with 720p. But in the end, broadcast television looks the same with either.
• Interlaced – your TV signal comes interlaced, meaning that every other line is projected on a screen at any given time. Your eye sees it as an entire image because the frames move at 60 frames a second, but you’re really on seeing half the image with a 1080i TV. The standard for broadcast television is 1080i, meaning that 540 lines are procast with each frame. Older HDTVs were 1080i by design.
• Progressive – Nowadays, HDTV standards are progressive, meaning that they show the entire image, with every line of resolution, with each frame. TVs can come in 720p or 1080p, meaning 720 lines of resolution or 1080 lines of resolution. Naturally, the higher the number, the sharper and more colorful the image. Some stations broadcast in 720p, but not many, especially in cable or satellite, where the image is compressed.
• Hertz (hz) – Hertz is essentially the number of frames per second, or times the pixels turn on and off. The more Hz you have on you picture, the more sharp it becomes. But it also can reduce motion blur and make your image look more plastic … called the “soap opera effect.” Most TVs now are 120 to 240 hz.  Now your salesman will be pushing you towards 240hz.  But for most, that’s overkill.  Broadcast signals are usually sent at 60hz since that is the standard. This requires the TV to “interpolate” or add frames in between to the image and that’s what causes the effect. It’s great for sports and action films, but not so much on dramas, which cause the plastic look. But frame interpolation can be turned off which will cause the kind of motion blur that we are used to.  Blu-ray, however, does take advantage of 120hz, so if you watch a lot of movies on Blu-ray, that may be a good option.  And if the soap opera effect is off putting, most TVs have the option to turn off frame interpolation and bring back the motion blur you are used to.
• Plasma – Plasma uses a trapped gas that is charged by electricity to create incredible light to pass through. It usually produces far bolder colors and great blacks, which are marvelous for shadow scenes. The downside with Plasma is that they are usually poor in bright, ambient lit rooms and originally suffered from a “burn in effect” (which has been overcome in recent years). These drawbacks have allowed LCDs to pass them in popularity to the point that Plasma is becoming less and less a factor in HDTV as more manufacturers abandon it for more popular and cheaper LCD designs. Since LCD has greatly improved in quality (thanks to LED backlighting), the contrast ratio gap between plasma and LCD has greatly reduced to the point where paying more for Plasma’s benefits is largely wasted on the average viewer.

2. Size Matters

Now that we have definitions out of the way, we can turn out attention to the most important factor when buying an LCD TV … Size. Most people tend to buy HDTVs that are smaller than they really need. They do this in an attempt to save money. But the trade offs can really affect the viewing experience. As a rule of thumb is to get a screen large enough to fill a 30 degree viewing angle at the distance that you are sitting. Anything less will cause you to be pulled out of the program. Here’s a handy calcuation to determine the best size for your room:

• Minimum size= Viewing distance/3
• Maximum size=Viewing distance/1.5

Using this calculation, and the average viewing distance of about 10-12 feet, the proper HDTV size would be about 42-55 inches, or more depending on your budget.

3. To 3D or not 3D … that is the question

These days, most higher end TVs are 3D.   But more budget conscious designs are also offering 3D, making it just another feature. And many experts say that the best 2D TVs are 3D capable. However, there are some drawbacks with a 3DTV, chiefly being the lack of programming and having to buy glasses. Active or Passive? Active more expensive. And it pretty much puts the kabosh on viewing parties unless everyone has the same pair of glasses.  Another important consideration with 3D is that the best refresh rate for 3D is 120Hz minimum. This is because 3D splits the frames, one for the left eye, one for the right and as such, the resolution is halved for each frame.  To that end, if you had a 60hz 3DTV, the refresh rate to each eye would only be 30hz which would be terrible.  So manufacturers made the spec 120hz minimum to keep up with broadcast standards.  On the other side of the coin, though, we’re starting to see 240hz TVs and frankly, that’s a waste of money since there really is no broadcast signal at 240hz and the TV ends up doing way too much interpolating and again, making hte images look like a  soap opera.  But some prefer it because the look is essentially flicker free.

4. Wired or Wireless Connectivity?

HDTVs that are Internet capable are rapidly becoming a standard feature. In fact, most new HDTVs are now able to stream video directly from the Internet. And with over a third of all internet traffic being streaming video from services like Netflix, and with more people “cutting the cable” and getting free from payTV services, streaming is a solid option. So having an internet capable TV is beneficial. But not required, as many Blu-ray players are also internet capable, along with streaming boxes like AppleTV, Roku, and the Boxee box.

Wired considerations also lead to having a wireless connection that will hook into your Network wirelessly.  This is of great advantage because then you don’t have to string long ethernet cables from your router to your TV.  However, wireless does have the drawback of signal interference and slower speeds.  If you have your router on the other side of the house, or maybe in a room upstairs, you may need to get a repeater to pass the signal along for better streaming of video.

5. A little input

What inputs should one look for in a good LCDTV?  Well, at this stage, you want to keep things all digital. HDMI is the digital standard and every TV comes with it.  This also allows you to hook it into a current home theater, satellite box, and keep both audio and video signals completely digital.  The more HDMI connectors you have, the better, but 3 is the minimum since that would allow you to connect to to your cable or satellite box, video game console, and Blu-ray/DVD player.  Other inputs would be component-video (red, green and blue), SVideo or standard composite connections (red, white, and yellow) for older components.  But some are looking to use LCDTVs as computer monitors and for that you can use a DVI connector. But with DVI, you’ll also need an audio cable connector to handle your sound since DVI doesn’t carry the audio signal.  Another input option is Ethernet.  If you have a computer or networked attached storage to stream video and audio, an Ethernet connector will give you access to that network.

6. Sound choices

Should you rely on the speakers that are built into the TV or go with a home theater or sound bar? I haven’t found a TV that has a speaker setup that rivals a home theater system. If you can swing a system, which usually comes with at least 6 speakers and a subwoofer, and a Blu-ray player, I’d say go for it. But if you don’t have space in your room, then by all means look at a soundbar. But if you’re on a budget, then sometimes the reality is that the home theater system will have to wait. Just start saving up for it. As for which one to get? That’s another show.

7.  App obsessions

Many TVs have apps built into them.  Applications that can be used to stream video from Netflix, do video conferencing via Skype, and even enjoy photographs you’ve uploaded to flickr.  There are dozens of them.  Is this a key feature not to miss?  Not really.  If your TV has them, that’s great, but chances are, if they don’t have the app you want, your new Blu-ray player will.

8.  What’s on the horizon?

The future is bringing all kinds of innovations, including glasses free 3D, 4K resolution, Skype support and even holographic projection. But at this point, they are largely prototypical, limited in viewing area, and there isn’t much in the way of content to support 4K or laser based TVs. And they are quite expensive.  So for now, they are on the horizon and something to keep an eye on for your NEXT HDTV.  The only exception is Skype support as many models do offer this as an “app” built into the system.

9. Which ones to choose?

So, what are the best LCD TVs out there? Samsung and Panasonic are top sellers, as is SONY’s Bravia line. But don’t count out Vizio, who makes a great LCD for the money. Still, there are plenty of great TVs out there and it’s a good do your research. HomeTheaterMag.com is a great resource for reviews on HDTVs.  Also, keep in mind that Costco is a great source of LCD TVs, as they offer a 90-day warranty and 2-year warranty on all their sets.  Amazon is another great place to look as they don’t charge tax in many states, which can often ad upwards of 10% to the price tag.

10. Setting them up

Once you get the TV home, you’ll need to calibrate your TV to fit your room’s lighting conditions. Every TV is set for a “dynamic mode,” at the factory to look great on the showroom floor. That’s because they don’t know which one will be chosen to demo the model. But that also doesn’t look that great when you get it home. You can spend hundreds having a professional calibrate your TV, or you can go the DIY route with a great DVD called Digital Video Essentials: HD Basics, by Joe Kane. This DVD has special test patterns and audio calibration signals that will help to optimize your HDTV for the special conditions of your viewing room, and it will do it in under a half hour. Well worth it’s $20 price tag. But you can get 80% there by drilling into your TVs setup menu and selecting “cinema” or “movie” mode rather than “dynamic.”

2.5 out of 5 stars

Everyone’s got to start somewhere. When getting new products, especially for the first time, most of us fail to do the proper research, and with good reason: we don’t have enough of a background to understand the product or service we’re researching. So it’s best to stick with bigger brands with safety options, like long warranty’s and the chance to return it for next to any reason. That’s partly why Costco is so popular.

With TVs though, trusting big brand names like Samsung or Sony often comes with a steep price. Television sets can range from overpriced to what were you thinking in no time. There is no better way to make your wife into a zealous rage than by attempting to explain how a 42” TV could possibly cost $2,000, when you’re supposed to be saving up with a baby on the way. I mean, really. Think of the children!

Perhaps with the Sceptre E420BV-F120 42” LED-HDTV, picking a big brand name isn’t the best bet.

The E420BV-F120 42” LED-HDTV – or F120 for short, because who in the hell came up with such an atrocious name – is a 42” 1080p LED backlit display. It’s not the fanciest, nor is it the biggest set you can find, but it has plenty of inputs. Because the one thing you don’t want to be left without is the proper input options for whatever you use around the media center.

The F120 has one of everything – cable/antenna, component, composite, S-video, VGA + audio, and even a USB, all on top of 5 HDMI inputs. This means you can hook up up-to 11 video sources into this TV at once, which is fabulous. It was for me during my testing, in which I had all of the following connected simultaneously: Playstation 3, Xbox 360, Wii, Apple TV, Logitech Revue, an OnLive microconsole, a desktop computer, a capture card, and occasionally my laptop. Every bit of hardware I had spewed across my media center had its place.

Add on top of that a standard Auxiliary, RCA and SPDIF audio outputs, and any stereo headsets you have can keep that pleasure watching on the down low, so you don’t wake up the baby. Unfortunately the SPDIF is coaxial, which will send an analog surround signal to some surround speakers systems. A digital fiber cable would have been an infinitely better option. Lacking a digital audio-out is a real shame, especially with the tinny soundbar, which barely kept me on the edge of my seat when watching The Dark Knight or Inception, or playing Crysis 2. Even with my sophisticated sound system being forced to have dozens of wires just for audio, especially when HDMI is so prevalent, is beyond a nuisance.

Of course, if sound and video quality are the most important thing for you when it comes to a new television set, then the F120 may not be for you. Audio quality is lacking and, as mentioned, there’s no fiber out. Video quality is decent, but not great. After calibrating (and yes, you’d better take some time to calibrate this set before having a housewarming for the new TV), you’ll immediately notice light bleed from the backlight, pixilation in DVD playback and most upscaled video, and otherwise blue blacks. SD quality video isn’t a big deal if you have an HD cable box and generally stream in HD, but if you still haven’t made the move then this set is definitely not for you. For 720p and 1080p video, images are clear and sharp, though colors are dim and the dark blacks are uncomfortable.

A note on light bleed. Light bleed, as you can see in the image above, is when the backlight shines through the edges of the screen. This makes images too bright, which is especially harmful to darker images on the screen. Picture a film with plenty of low-light scenes, and imagine them brightened around the corners because of the TV. The F120 does exactly that, and as you can see in the light bleed pattern above, this is more than an annoyance. It’s a severe headache. It is hard to see the backlight bleeding through on brighter video and games, and the more color used also tends to help (black and white video suffers, for example), so if you play a lot of video games, the light bleed isn’t going to be a big deal. For movie and TV viewers, it is more prevalent, but once again depends on the content.

But let’s take a step back and get back to the baby. You’d really better be careful with the F120. Even with the circular base the TV doesn’t sit in place very well, especially with all of those cables you have plugged in on the bottom or left side of the TV. It wobbles back and forth, and I wasn’t too comfortable with how easy the display is to move. Wall mounted, the F120 is fine…otherwise, be wary of junior doing this.

As a new TV, especially a first TV for a high-tech house with plenty of HD devices, the Sceptre E420BV-F120 42” LED-HDTV is a good set to have. It’s got enough ports for almost anything, excluding outputting digital surround audio. For HD content, video quality is decent and certainly good enough for a starter TV or as a step-up from an SD set. But if you’re looking to replace your current HDTV, still watch a lot of SD content, don’t necessarily want to wall mount (and have a safety issue) and want a good soundbar, then the F120 is one TV you should pass on. However, I have no doubt new buyers will be happy with the F120 even with its light bleed and average video quality because of its simplicity, many available ports, ease of use, and low price.

The Sceptre E420BV-F120 42” LED HDTV is available for purchase from Amazon for $699.99.

Samsung QWERTY keyboard remote control will hopefully ship sometime this quarter and will cost $99.99.  That is provided of course you don’t purchase Sammy’s LED D8000 and D7000 Series and Plasma D8000 Series Smart TVs, which will come bundled with the double sided remote.  An accelerometer, or a variation there of, detects which side of the remote is facing up – QWERTY or keypad – insuring that only the buttons facing the user are operable, removing the chance of a mispress.  A small LCD screen on the QWERTY side insures that you don’t have to look up at the TV set while inputting a web URL, looking for Netflix movie or using one of 200 apps available from Samsung, including HBO GO.

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